Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. We all agreed that the duck that had been cured in the vacuum bag for 24 hours was the silkiest of the bunch, but—and I can't stress this enough—the difference was so subtle, almost verging on imperceptible, that I can't rule out the possibility that it was due to variations in the duck legs themselves. ", When I got back, I carefully scraped away at the top layer of fat until I uncovered the first duck leg, then gently excavated it, like an archaeologist digging up some rare antiquity. SVS for under $200 sounds VERY cheap. Of course, dryness is a relative term here. Timings were perfect. steaks cooked to a precise temperature from edge to edge, Unforgettable: The Bold Flavors of Paula Wolfert's Renegade Life, Bánh Tráng Nướng (Grilled Vietnamese Rice Paper With Egg, Pork, and Condiments), Yes, Dry-Aging Duck at Home Is Worth the Wait, How to Get the Most Dang for Your Duck: A (Very) Serious Eats Project. These are absurdly easy to use. https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/12/how-to-make-sous-vide-duck-confit.html Subscribe to our newsletter to get the latest recipes and tips! I admire your open admissions regarding the seasoning. Duck has been a problem for me, sous vide, as most references on the web for duck seem to treat it the same as beef which seems to be completely wrong. The final step was to pack the meat into a container, pour the liquefied fat on top to fully submerge it, and cool it down enough for the fat to solidify. This is another great, informative post, Stefan. The differences here ended up being extremely subtle. But I often don't want that. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. mmmm Bob, duck fat is so much more delicious, with a hint of sweetness to it. This small amount of duck fat is easy to obtain from cooking duck breasts, and like CampariGirl said it has a better flavor. If it’s true that SVS is available for $200, I’d go for it if I were you…. First, the cured duck legs are sous vide in duck fat for 24 hours at 145°F to make them extra-moist and tender. I used to make it for my restaurant and also provided confit duck legs to other establishments. Confit is a traditional French preparation to cook the legs low and slow in duck fat to make them tender as well as preserve them. I have done confit before using a big jar of goose fat, but didn’t brine first. Preparing food sous vide is one of the hallmarks of Modernist cooking and is often associated with expensive equipment and intricate applications. Great how-to – always looking for new ways to sous vide my duck. You basically just fill with water, set the temp and drop your vacuum packs in. For the dry brine for 1kg of rock salt or sea salt I use 30 gr of salpeter or sodium nitrate, 50 gr sugar, 1 pulverized bay leave , 1 tsp of pepper and a dash of cloves. Firm texture across the time spectrum, more like roast duck. I haven’t done any side by side testing of sous-vide versus traditional, but I know that the Modernist Cuisine guys have (I assume you have heard of them?) The real innovation in my confit, though, is the AmazingRibs.com’s sous-vide-que method. The transformation of meat is dependent on both of those factors, and testing all the potential combinations of heat and time can take...time. , Thanks, Richard. For deco i added pomegrate and cherry and created a bit of pan gravy using red wine and chicken stock. If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment. I wasn't able to get great results at 170°F, even in as short a time as eight hours, so I didn't bother trying to push up the temperature to 180°F—all that lay ahead was dryness. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. (Then again, I'd never had sous vide duck confit.). A decent option if time-saving is critical; otherwise, not the best. Now, I'm not a sous vide acolyte. Or do you mean something else? The result was very tender flaky duck meat with crispy skin. In both cases, the cooked ingredient is completely tenderized (cooked in its own juices or in olive oil). So do grains and tough cuts of meat, which become tender more quickly in a pressure cooker. You can now let them cool slightly and progress to the next step, or cool them quickly in ice water and refrigerate them until you are ready to serve and then reheat 12 minutes at 80C/176F. 18% weight in coarse sea salt. Peel off the herbs and scrape away any excess fat off the meat. Farmers in rural southwest France would find themselves with an abundance of meat at the various points in the year when animals were slaughtered—more meat than they could hope to eat before it turned. Because the duck legs are vacuum-sealed, there's little to no air in each bag. LOL yes i read about that – and hanging it up in a cool airy place and so on. Apart from using much less duck fat, the advantage is also that temperature control is very easy. Because I have little skin in the sous vide game, believe me when I tell you that it's quite possibly the best way to cook duck confit. The salt had drawn out some of the juices, and had also penetrated the meat. Thanks, Conor. First, because it really and truly wasn't rotten; second, because it was as tender and silky as I could have hoped for. I do a little of both. During all that time, my confit sat in the fridge, encased in its protective fat, with a note on the bowl for the person who was subletting my apartment: "Don't touch. Not only does sous vide cooking produce an exceptional version of confit duck leg, it's far easier than the traditional method. It can be gently rewarmed, then pulled from the bone, shredded, and blended with some of the rendered fat to make rillettes, or broiled or baked in a hot oven until the skin is browned and crispy, then served a million different ways. Some comments may be held for manual review. Goose fat however is available in huge cans, so that could work…, I’ve been reading about sous-vide cookery for a while now. I’ll have to check that out! We cook a skinless duck breast sous vide until it’s juicy and tender. Unlike duck breast, duck legs are tough and need low & slow cooking to make them tender. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and owner is strictly prohibited. The process is called purging and is used in curing of larger cuts like hams. You get the effect of duck legs submerged in fat, without needing more than the few tablespoons that form in the bag. The cuts should only barely cut into the skin and fat; don't cut into the meat. I would like to see the pictures. Nineteen eighty-three! Enter, CS Dak by Cuisine Solutions, New York’s first sous vide dark assembly kitchen. They were quite good actually, the salt just overpowered the duck taste a bit. Comments can take a minute to appear—please be patient! The skin is tackled separately, using an ingenious technique that we call cryo-grinding. Blowing up the duck with a bike pump to loosen the skin was fun, though…. Rub the duck with the thyme, salt, and peppercorns. The biggest challenge for most home cooks faced with a duck confit recipe is procuring enough rendered fat to submerge all the duck. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! It’s great to learn from other people’s mistakes…. Traditional duck confit is a pain to make because you need so much duck fat. Then I rubbed fresh duck legs with salt, garlic, and herbs; cured them briefly; and finally cooked them, submerged in all that golden fat, at my oven's lowest temperature. There’s just something about making duck confit the traditional way, fat and all… I’ll have to think about this one! The Modernist Cuisine folks actually did blind tests and even very traditional chefs liked the duck confit that was cooked sous-vide with only a few tablespoons of fat. Then I sealed them into a vacuum pouch again, with a tablespoon of duck fat for each of the legs. Ah, now I see what you meant. Shorter cooking times produced duck that was slightly drier and less tender than the 155°F samples. Remove duck from water. and they claim that in a blind tasting nobody could tell the difference. especially interested to see whether you;d give making hoisin sauce from scratch a go, In fact I did some experimenting with that last week, but it was a bit of a last-minute thing with a friend that was not properly documented for blogging nor properly researched. It seems a little daunting. Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. And, technically speaking, that purist would be right. Good, but not like confit. The most famous of confits, duck confit, was made by slowly cooking lightly cured duck legs in rendered duck fat, and then storing the cooked legs in the fat. The sous-vide cooking style has a very similar effect to the confit cooking style. I was recently corresponding with Emily Kaiser Thelin and Andrea Nguyen, author and editor, respectively, of the biography and cookbook Unforgettable: The Bold Flavors of Paula Wolfert's Renegade Life, and they pointed me toward the original, 1983 edition of Wolfert's The Cooking of South-West France, in which she describes the implications of sous vide cooking on page 349. The main advantage is that you don’t need as much duck fat. Here, meaty duck legs are slow cooked in duck fat until fall apart tender before being finished on the grill until it … Generously season meat sides with … That sounds very nice. What you do with it after that depends on the recipe. I have confit many duck legs. We didn’t have time to let it dry properly (only for 4 hours or so), so it didn’t turn out as crispy as needed. I'll take a piece of roasted lamb with a range of doneness levels over one with a micro-thin browned band surrounding a soulless, perfectly even medium-rare slab—a texture I find freakishly similar to that of crème brûlée—any day of the week. The duck skin is frozen solid in a bath of liquid nitrogen, which leaves it very brittle. I've also settled on a temperature and time in my own recipe that are considerably different from Wolfert's—mine is not a time-saver—and I think the textural results are superior enough to make an even more compelling argument in favor of sous vide in this application. Wine companion was a Château Champarel (Bergerac) 2009. now enjoyying a 5y aged Ramon Alones Specially Selected. Save this Sous vide duck confit pavé recipe and more from Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking to your own online collection at EatYourBooks.com More than two decades later, Wolfert had an exchange with Nathan Myhrvold on an eGullet forum, in which he suggested the sous vide method for confit in particular. It actually also covers traditional cooking techniques.… Making duck confit is also very easy with sous vide and after being cured is cooked at 167°F / 75°C for 10 to 20 hours with some duck fat in the pouch. Now, isn't that something? Rather than mastering the classic interpretation, the recipe in Modernist Cuisine flips it on its head by focusing on refining the flavors of a roasted bird and applying Modernist techniques. © Stefan Boer, 2011-2019. Günther. They won't know what they're missing. I packed the cure as evenly as I could on the duck legs, and vacuum sealed them to facilitate the curing process. 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